Thursday, March 19, 2009

Le Parvenu

Sorry I have not posted in awhile but I have been snowed under at work and at home. Fortunately part of that snow has been a trip to Kenner for a food show and an opportunity to dine in one of Kenner's high end places in the old town area. I had intended to go to a venue further up Williams near the lake and casino but they closed on me. I then decided to go to Le Parnenu. Since I still have quite a few "About and Beyonds" in my quiver I decided to give this place the full treatment on the blog. Below is a shot of the main dinning room looking out on the porch. This restaurant is in an old house with a limited number of off street parking spots on a side street. It has a lovely covered porch which would be perfect for those who like al fresco. The interior with the wooden floors and pastel colored chairs and white linen tables is very inviting. On to the food

They bring cheese toast made from their French baguettes when you sit. The cheese has penetrated the bread and has lots of flavor from seasonings and herbs. Quite addictive. By it is my usual preprandial cocktail. It is a Negroni straight up. It is composed of equal parts gin, Campari and sweet vermouth. It is an excellent aperitif to stimulate your appetite while calming your nerves

First course was "Our Famous Mirliton, Shrimp, & Crab Bisque". That is straight from the menu and well deserved. A creamy soup with a big seafood punch but quite delicate. The mirliton (also known as chayote or vegetable pear) gave a vegetal under note while small shrimp and chunks of crab proved nice. I did discover a few crab membranes and a piece of onion skin but they did not deter me from enjoying thoroughly.

Chef Dennis’ Original Oyster Doubloon, Wilted Fresh “Rockefeller” Spinach came next. This was a very satisfying riff on Oysters Rockefeller. The doubloon consisted of oyster dressing formed into a patty and pan sauteed. It sits on wilted spinach with an anise undertone. Topped by fresh lump crabmeat and a nice lemon butter sauce it stood out. The doubloon possessed a nice strong oyster flavor and when all the parts where consumed together it had the taste of an really great Rockefeller. As I love the taste of oysters I was extremely happy with the dish.

Cornmeal Crusted Snapper Fillet, Crabmeat & Toasted Almonds Topped With Lump Crabmeat, Almonds, And A “Meuniere” Beurre Blanc. I was in the mood for fish but I had some trepedations about going with this. Cornmeal crusted catfish is good but on snapper and I have a thing about nuts with food. But I am also adventurous and willing to try new things especially coming out a kitchen of a recognised chef. In the end I loved it. The crust seemed more corn flour and delectably seasoned. It certainly contrasted well with the fish. The crisp and crunchy crust and the sweet and moist fish. The slivered almonds were pan toasted. This resulted in a nutty sweet flavor that boosted the sweetness of the crab. Again there was a contrast of crisp and soft. You got two things that had two layers of flavor. Put together they surpassed the sum of their parts. The sauce brought them together.

A nice side plate of vegetables came with it. Brabrant potatoes with strong flavors and delicately steamed yellow squash, carrots and broccoli with a light lemon butter sauce rounded out the meal. Best treatment I have seen in awhile

Bringing up the rear was espresso and creme brulee. The crust on the brulee seemed to be a bit overdone but I found it gave not only a caramel flavor but a slight bitterness that contrasted well with the unctuous custard underneath. The second absolutely perfect one that I have had this month.

This was certainly a treat in the middle of a hard week. I do not know how I will top it this coming week which is looking to be as jam packed as this week. Hopefully I will be able to post more but I am not certain. Here is the link to this fine dining establishment


Anonymous said...

Mr. Hebert...
Thank you kindly for giving us a try....and more so your favorable blog comments. I don't advertise much so we're somewhat of a "secret" if I may, but attentions such as yours does indeed help out.
Chef Dennis / Le Parvenu

Arthur "The Bear" Hebert said...

You can thank me all you want but you and your staff did all the heavy lifting. As the saying goes I call them as I see them. I hope I bring you some business